Simone Bellotti Unveils His Unique Minimalist Debut at Jil Sander

At Milan Fashion Week, Simone Bellotti made his debut as the creative director for Jil Sander. Marking his first collection, he embraced the brand’s Milanese roots, bringing a fresh perspective to the iconic fashion house.

Scroll down for the catwalk looks.

Return to Jil Sander’s Milan Headquarters

The last time Jil Sander showcased its collection from its own headquarters was in 2017 under Rodolfo Paglialunga. Afterward, Lucie and Luke Meier took the reins until their departure in 2025. Bellotti views this return as “a new beginning,” as stated in the show notes.

Jil Sander’s legacy is defined by minimalism, a principle Bellotti appears to hold dear. He muses, “Is it possible to omit and still leave a personal mark? Does less indeed make more achievable?” Such questions have guided his creative process.

Exploring Purity in Design

Bellotti’s debut collection emphasizes “purity as a mode, not a limitation.” The collection featured both menswear and womenswear, showcasing a blend of muted tones alongside vibrant colors. Combinations like dark blue with red or butter yellow, and pastel pink with brown paid homage to Sander’s preference for pairing bold colors with neutrals.

The designer expands upon this traditional palette by incorporating elements of color blocking, creating visually striking contrasts on the runway.

Silhouette and Form

According to show notes, the silhouettes in this collection are “strictly vertical.” A unique feature includes small cut-outs, reminiscent of slashes in paper, which can be seen halfway down skirts or just below the waist. There are larger openings in tops and dresses, revealing layers with a bralette underneath.

These playful forms are echoed in jackets with rounded shoulders and slightly gathered sleeves at the buttons. Bellotti’s approach respects Sander’s legacy, steering clear of imposing a foreign style while refreshing the brand authentically.

Overall, Bellotti’s approach represents a thoughtful appreciation of Jil Sander’s history rather than a mere mimicry of his personal style. This fresh perspective refreshes and respects the brand’s rich past. How do you feel about Jil Sander’s new direction under Simone Bellotti?