The Cultural Impact of Sneakers: Insights from Wilson Smith & Tate Kuerbis
A Journey Through Sneaker Design
The Unexpected Transition
Close your eyes and visualize this pivotal moment: it’s 1986, at Nike’s headquarters in Oregon. Architect Wilson Smith III, known for his work on showrooms and corporate spaces, has been called for a meeting. Anticipating bad news amid layoffs, he is instead met with an unexpected proposition from designer Tinker Hatfield. Would Smith consider designing shoes for Nike?
"Sure, I’ve always wanted to design shoes," Smith recalls, even though that hadn’t crossed his mind before. Architecture was his guiding passion. Yet, he took the leap into footwear, and that decision paved the way for a remarkable 41-year career at Nike, where he became the first Black designer. Smith collaborated with legends like Hatfield to create iconic shoes for athletes including Michael Jordan and Serena Williams.
Mentoring the Next Generation
Now, years later, Smith and fellow designer Tate Kuerbis are mentoring aspiring sneaker designers at SCAD’s 2025 Sneaker Culture Week. With nearly three decades of experience, Kuerbis, who joined Nike right after graduating in 1995, has worked on several Air Jordans. He admits that he initially didn’t realize sneaker design was even a possibility.
"I just assumed that shoes kind of appeared in the store," he shares. The duo’s combined knowledge underscores the shoe industry’s evolution from simple functional footwear to a multi-billion dollar cultural phenomenon.
A Cultural Shift in Language
Smith and Kuerbis remember a time when sneakers were referred to as "tennis shoes." Over the years, the terminology has changed, reflecting a broader cultural shift. Smith shares that even during his early days at Nike, he didn’t adopt the term "sneaker" until it became widely accepted in the industry.
He emphasizes how the evolution of athletic footwear terminology aligns with societal transformation, highlighting how athletic shoes have transcended mere function to become cultural icons.
The Future of Sneaker Design
Looking forward, Smith and Kuerbis see several exciting developments in sneaker design. They predict a convergence of footwear and apparel, enabling more personalized and functional styles.
With technology evolving, customization will grow through digital tools like 3D printing. Builders will soon be able to create shoes that suit their exact needs, transforming the way consumers interact with design.
As the sneaker design industry continues to evolve, what exciting changes are you most looking forward to seeing in the world of footwear?
