Textile Exchange is embarking on a new journey, emphasizing collective accountability rather than just consensus. This week, the organization revealed a streamlined five-year strategy aimed at 2030, positioning itself to drive significant change and bridge the gap between intent and action in the fashion industry.
The core of this strategy includes a frank acknowledgment: despite over 20 years of progress, increasing industry engagement, and more than 90,000 certified sites worldwide, the fashion sector is failing to meet the crucial science-based targets for reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Textile Exchange’s goal—a 45% reduction in emissions from fiber and material production by 2030—still seems out of reach.
“There’s been considerable engagement, but the impact hasn’t matched the ambition,” states CEO Claire Bergkamp in a recent press release. “To achieve our goals, it’s essential that we realign our focus on the raw materials that are foundational to the supply chain.”
Having joined the organization in 2023 after a decade with Stella McCartney and the Global Fashion Agenda, Bergkamp spearheaded a strategic review to refine Textile Exchange’s mission and priorities. The outcome is a focused strategy that places increased importance on Tier 4—the often-overlooked producers and farmers at the beginning of the supply chain—while urging brands to take actionable steps beyond mere commitments.
Key Focus Areas
The strategy revolves around three interconnected pillars: engaging the industry, achieving measurable climate and nature outcomes, and transforming the standards system. The newly branded “Materials Matter” initiative signifies a major shift toward a unified, outcome-driven certification framework. This change aims to simplify the fragmented standards landscape and enable brands to concentrate on tangible results rather than checkboxes.
As the industry faces numerous challenges—including resistance to ESG frameworks in the U.S., upcoming regulations in Europe, and ongoing geopolitical instability—Textile Exchange identifies this as a pivotal moment. Brands are now pressured to showcase genuine climate actions, while producers—often underfunded and overwhelmed—are seeking a voice in the discussions.
Investing in Producers
“Our strategy centers on the voices of producers and equity,” Bergkamp says. “If a brand is serious about making headway on climate, investment in the individuals who cultivate these materials is crucial. This requires a shift in financial flow, moving beyond storytelling to tangible action.”
The organization encourages brands to implement true cost accounting practices, addressing the gap between material expenses and their long-term environmental benefits. Higher-quality materials—such as regenerative cotton, wool from sustainably managed grazing systems, or recycled synthetics—often come with a higher price tag. Textile Exchange urges brands to internalize these costs rather than passing them onto producers, suggesting the development of more supportive sourcing models.
Simultaneously, Textile Exchange is enhancing its data and reporting structure to facilitate transparent impact tracking. By investing in scientific tools and clearer metrics, it aims to ensure that nature and climate outcomes are both traceable and comparable industry-wide.
Navigating the future will be a complex endeavor. The organization acknowledges the necessity of moving beyond mere pilot projects and pledges. Its updated strategy highlights the importance of implementation: coordinated investments, shared risks, and on-the-ground collaboration between brands and producers.
“No singular solution exists,” Bergkamp noted in the press release. “However, we believe that real transformation begins with uniting the industry around material-level impacts and ensuring that those producing our fibers are empowered and valued.”
Textile Exchange, a nonprofit focused on sustainable practices, is redefining its approach, marking a significant shift in the sustainability narrative within the fashion realm. This refreshed strategy moves away from fragmented standards and temporary initiatives toward a more cohesive emphasis on impact, equity, and core business principles. With the 2030 deadline drawing near, will this shift finally catalyze the collective action that has long been anticipated?
