Revitalizing Savile Row: How Apprentices Bring Fresh Energy to History

Hidden beneath the historic facade of a tailor’s shop on Savile Row, London, a vibrant workshop thrives as eager coatmakers seek competitive apprenticeships. This renowned street, known for dressing everyone from royals to intelligence agents, is shining a light on its trainees during a special showcase tied to London Fashion Week, which continues until Monday.

Simon Cundey, managing director and owner of the esteemed Henry Poole & Co., one of Savile Row’s oldest bespoke tailors, noted an impressive increase in apprenticeship applications over the past year and a half. “It’s been a remarkable surge,” he shared.

Reviving Traditions

Historically, apprenticeships in this elite area were informal, and master tailors often hesitated to divulge their craft secrets to newcomers. However, the rise of ready-to-wear fashion prompted Savile Row’s tailors to unite about 20 years ago, creating a formal apprenticeship program designed to preserve their unique craft for future generations.

Since its inception in 2007, the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) Apprenticeship Scheme has seen over 100 graduates. Apprentices dedicate between two and six years honing their skills in coat-making, trouser construction, or cutting, before being evaluated by a team of seasoned tailors.

While many traditional crafts face a decline in interest, retailers on Savile Row are optimistic that this initiative has revitalized the trade, ensuring the preservation of quality and the reputation of bespoke tailoring.

Changing Demographics

When Jinny Seals joined Henry Poole in the early 2000s, she found herself among a predominantly older workforce; the average age was around 55, with only three women in the workshop. “There was definitely a shortage of apprentices,” she reflected. Fast forward to today, and Seals noted an impressive shift: “Now, they have stacks of CVs from individuals eager for apprenticeships.”

Moreover, she observed a balance in gender representation, stating, “There are just as many girls as boys. The landscape has transformed significantly in a short time.”

A New Approach to Craftsmanship

In the Henry Poole workshop, lively hip-hop tunes fill the air as apprentices collaborate with mentors, absorbed in their craft, working diligently on sewing machines surrounded by rich fabrics. Currently, there are three apprentices on-site, with two more set to join soon. Wendy Berberi, who embarked on her journey with Henry Poole during the pandemic at only 16, expressed her delight about being part of this traditional setting focused on bespoke tailoring.

“I didn’t initially expect to be here on Savile Row, mainly known for menswear, but my experience has been incredibly rewarding,” Berberi noted, having completed her training just this year. She emphasized the value of hands-on learning, stating, “Apprenticeships provide the opportunity to learn directly from seasoned professionals.”

Cundey remarked that since the Covid-19 pandemic, there’s been a noticeable shift in people’s career aspirations, with many individuals gravitating towards stable, hands-on jobs rather than traditional office roles. “Learning a craft ensures you continue to improve as you age,” he explained.

Embracing Slow Fashion

A few doors down, Dege & Skinner currently hosts four apprentices, the highest number at any one time, according to their managing director William Skinner. Excitingly, all of these trainees are women. This year’s Golden Shears Award, which honors outstanding tailoring students, also marks its 50th anniversary, with Savile Row houses proudly displaying past winners’ works during Fashion Week.

Additionally, the London Academy of Bespoke (LAB), situated on Savile Row, recently launched a pre-apprenticeship course aimed at aspiring tailors. Jinny Seals, who teaches at LAB, mentioned the focus on sustainability and ‘slow fashion’. This resurgence in interest reflects a growing acknowledgment of the need to counteract the fast fashion industry and its environmental impact.

Seals added, “It’s heartening to see people recognize the value of traditional methods over fast fashion, as many want to learn the enduring techniques we practice.” Jane’s optimism assures her that the bespoke tailoring craft is here to stay.