Paying Tribute to Armani: Milan Fashion Week Celebrates New Stars

Milan Fashion Week kicks off on Tuesday, showcasing a lavish display of Italian fashion. This year, the spotlight is on the final collections of the late Giorgio Armani, along with fresh talent from Gucci and Versace.

Brands such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Ferragamo, and Bottega Veneta will present their Spring/Summer 2026 women’s collections over the course of the week.

However, the mood is bittersweet, marked by the recent passing of Armani, a fashion icon who helped elevate Milan’s status in the industry at the age of 91.

The Giorgio Armani show scheduled for Sunday was already poised to be a grand celebration of the label’s 50 years, beloved by Hollywood’s elite. It will now serve as a poignant farewell.

The event is being held at the esteemed Pinacoteca di Brera art museum, which will host an anniversary exhibition featuring 150 of Armani’s most notable works from September 24 until January 11. This project was reportedly completed just before his passing.

“We honor Milan Fashion Week in memory of one of its founders: Giorgio Armani,” said Carlo Capasa, the head of Italy’s chamber of fashion. He acknowledged Armani’s contributions to the industry during a transformative era, where creativity, quality, and consistency are vital.

New Beginnings

While Milan mourns its fashion king, the week also brings exciting new debuts, notably from Demna, the Georgian designer at Gucci. After a successful decade at Balenciaga, Demna now faces the challenge of revitalizing Gucci, a brand experiencing a sales slump.

Although Gucci won’t be featured on the official catwalk schedule in Milan, a private presentation is planned for Tuesday evening.

“If I’m understanding correctly, it will be a film showcasing Demna’s vision and interpretation of Gucci,” stated Kering’s new CEO, Luca de Meo, in a press briefing. “It’s set to offer something a bit different. I haven’t been given the chance to view it yet.”

Meanwhile, Dario Vitale marks his debut at Versace, succeeding Donatella Versace, who led the brand for almost 30 years. Similar to Gucci, no catwalk show is on the agenda; instead, an intimate event will unveil Vitale’s inaugural collection for the brand.

Challenges in Luxury

Other notable debuts include Louise Trotter’s first catwalk at Kering’s Bottega Veneta and Italian designer Simone Bellotti showcasing for Jil Sander. These changes reflect a broader shift occurring in the fashion industry, affecting brands like Dior and Chanel.

Luxury brands are currently wrestling with a decline in demand in China and global economic challenges. Luca Solca, a luxury sector analyst at Bernstein, noted slight signs of recovery in consumer confidence in China, indicated by increased in-store visits over the summer.

However, he cautioned that rising prices necessitate fresh offerings for consumers. “This wave of creative changes is likely a response to that need,” he mentioned to AFP.