Exploring Innovative Design Techniques with Issey Miyake’s IM Men
IM Men, a segment of the renowned Japanese fashion brand Issey Miyake, is currently showcasing an exhibition at the Berlin-based retailer Andreas Murkudis. The autumn/winter 2025 collection is now available for viewing and purchase there. This endeavor is intended to solidify the brand’s presence in the German market while connecting more deeply with its audience.
What sets this menswear label apart, and how does it embody Miyake’s vision of creating garments from a single fabric piece? Head designers Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi shed light on the brand’s philosophy and practices.
About the IM Men design team:
The creative direction at IM Men is orchestrated by Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi. Each designer brings unique expertise and has a background in the Miyake Design Studio (MDS). Selected in 2019 by the founder of Issey Miyake, they have been actively involved with various brands and projects at MDS.
Sen Kawahara has a strong background in design and development. His work includes Pleats Please Issey Miyake and In-ei Issey Miyake. By 2010, he joined the design team for 132 5. Issey Miyake, later contributing to the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake team. Additionally, he currently oversees design at Issey Miyake Eyes alongside his role at IM Men.
Yuki Itakura, also focused on design and development, joined the team for 132 5. Issey Miyake in 2010 and continues to contribute to this line, along with his responsibilities at both IM Men and Please Issey.
Nobutaka Kobayashi has over a decade of experience in textile design from Issey Miyake’s womenswear lines. He later worked with Me Issey Miyake and Homme Plissé before becoming part of the 132 5. design team in 2017 and now serves as the textile designer for IM Men.
What distinguishes IM Men within the Issey Miyake universe?
Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi explain that they embrace Miyake’s philosophy of “a piece of cloth” from a menswear perspective. Their collaborative methodology unifies design and engineering, allowing them to explore various innovative techniques and aesthetics.
How does IM Men incorporate functionality and innovation in design and production?
Typical innovations include flat-foldable and compact designs, lightweight and crease-resistant materials, and designs that accommodate human movement through various pleating techniques. The garments are produced from a single piece of fabric, minimizing waste and supporting sustainable practices.
Key design principles:
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Flat-foldable design: Ideal for travel and wardrobe, eliminating the need for ironing or hangers.
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Lightweight, crease-resistant materials: Ensure comfort, ease of care, and versatility, akin to loungewear.
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Movement-aware design: Incorporates both machine and organic pleats to facilitate natural body movement.
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Minimized fabric usage: Reduces waste by limiting the amount of fabric needed during production, thus contributing to sustainability.
The collaborative skill set of the IM Men team
The design team collaborates closely, combining expertise in design and engineering. Each member can not only design but also manage the entire production process.
Team members Sen Kawahara and Yuki Itakura specialize in pattern-making, while Nobutaka Kobayashi focuses on textile design. Their diverse experiences, which include fields like footwear, accessories, and even lighting, enhance the creativity of their work.
At IM Men, there’s a strong emphasis on developing original textiles, where interdisciplinary knowledge fosters innovative thinking and unique design perspectives.
Where do the inspirations for IM Men come from?
The inspiration is drawn from everyday experiences, influenced by travel and the cultural encounters we have along the way. The team remains constantly engaged with exhibitions, films, and other art forms that resonate with them.
What impact do different presentation styles have on your collections?
Presentations through performances delve into the relationship with the body, exploring deeper emotional connections. Exhibitions, on the other hand, offer a platform to showcase textiles and structures in a detailed way that performances cannot fully accommodate. This approach encourages broader accessibility for audiences.
What can attendees expect from the ‘Fly With IM Men’ exhibition at the Andreas Murkudis store?
Visitors will find unique IM Men products that integrate traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge technologies. This exhibition allows audiences to appreciate the textures and dimensional qualities of the garments, which can’t be entirely captured through images or video.
How does the exhibition connect to existing collections?
The display is rooted in the autumn/winter 2025/26 collection, which was initially unveiled in Paris in January 2025, with the exhibition following soon after. Treated as a journey, the exhibition has travelled from Paris to Tokyo and Osaka, with Berlin now being its fourth stop. Each presentation is tailored to fit the venue, providing a distinct experience every time.
About IM Men:
IM Men is a menswear label from Issey Miyake, launched in 2021 to explore new avenues in design and manufacturing. The brand adheres to the core philosophy of ‘A Piece of Cloth’, where functionality intertwines with creativity. The acronym ‘IM’ refers to the earlier brand ‘im product’, which operated from the late 1970s through the 1990s.
There is currently one IM Men store in Aoyama, Japan, alongside three retail spaces in department stores in Japan, Taiwan, and China. The brand is also available at various Issey Miyake outlets, including seven in Japan and ten globally across major cities such as New York, London, and Paris. IM Men collaborates with around ten retail partners in North America and Europe, including Andreas Murkudis in Berlin.
This interview was conducted in writing.
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