Few debuts in recent history have exuded such confidence as Michael Rider’s inaugural collection for Celine at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Showcasing a co-ed presentation within the brand’s atelier at 16 Rue Vivienne, Rider’s collection turned Celine’s legacy into a dynamic archive, merging Phoebe Philo’s practical minimalism with Hedi Slimane’s sharp bourgeois flair. The outcome was a collection that clearly targeted the market while retaining a sense of authenticity.
Continuity as a Competitive Strategy
Under Rider’s stewardship, Celine has seen its sales soar to an estimated 2.5 billion euros, largely due to successful accessories, menswear, and fragrance lines. Instead of launching a complete overhaul, Rider wisely focused on proven successes, including new Triomphe bags, substantial jewelry pieces, vibrant logo tees, and comfortably low loafers—items aimed at volume sales. In a climate where soft luxury demand is expected to rise only slightly this year, such a product-centric approach reflects strategic risk management.
Design Language: Emphasizing Annotation Over Erasure
Slimane’s rebranding effort, which stirred debate over the removal of the accent aigu in “Céline,” remains intact. Rider’s choice to retain the clean logotype signifies a recognition of the brand equity that shouldn’t be sacrificed during a leadership transition. This contrasts sharply with the frequent logo changes seen in other brands, such as Burberry and Balenciaga, which have undergone multiple transformations in a short period.
Subtle Evolution Over Drastic Change
Rider’s approach mirrors that of Jonathan Anderson in his debut at Dior, emphasizing that a brand refresh should honor its history. Creative leaders today understand that heritage labels now operate within publicly traded conglomerates like LVMH, where consistent margins take precedence over aesthetic revolutions. Recent figures from LVMH illustrate this shift, revealing that fashion and leather goods brought in 41 billion euros, highlighting a preference for steady growth over costly transformations.
The collection itself illustrates that a focus on commercial viability can still bring joy. Long coats, both double and single-breasted, pay tribute to the carefree spirit that endeared Philo to fans. Slim-fitting trousers beneath tailored jackets echo Slimane’s rock-inspired aesthetic without the past extreme detachment. Accessories struck a particularly strong note, showcasing an array of new bag styles designed to attract customers.
As luxury brands adjust their expectations and with diminished store traffic in markets like China and the US, Rider’s strategy of “evolution, not erasure” remains as relevant as any contemporary silhouette on display. What do you think about this approach in today’s fashion landscape?
