Discover the Exciting SS26 Debuts: A Season of Fresh Starts
The spring/summer 2026 fashion season is notably marked by a variety of new designer debuts, even before it officially begins. What starts off as a low-key affair in New York and London quickly turns into an exciting frenzy of changes in Milan and Paris. The ongoing shift among creative directors reaches its zenith this season, making it easy to overlook some key details. To keep you in the loop, we’ve rounded up the most significant debuts and important dates.
New York Fashion Week
New York Fashion Week kicks off the season with a surprisingly subdued atmosphere. There are minimal changes in leadership roles, punctuated only by the first collection from Nicholas Aburn, former Balenciaga designer. This Friday, Aburn will showcase his debut collection for Area, stepping in for co-founder Piotrek Panszczyk.
At Proenza Schouler, although there isn’t a major runway show, there is still significant news. Wednesday morning marked the presentation of their first collection with Rachel Scott at the helm, showcasing a collaborative effort between her and the studio team.
London Fashion Week
This season, London Fashion Week feels even more subdued. Rather than showcasing new talent from established fashion houses, the focus is on a “next era of British fashion” led by a new vision. Recent years have seen the event losing some of its creative edge to Milan and Paris.
CEO Laura Weir aims to reignite London Fashion Week, developing a sustainable fashion economy for local and global designers.
Milan Fashion Week
While London is quieter, Milan and Paris are set to buzz with activity. On September 23, all eyes will be on Demna Gvasalia as he presents his first collection for Gucci—one of the season’s most anticipated events.
The following day, Simone Bellotti will share more insights into his vision for Jil Sander, following a teaser released earlier via a video clip.
Teasers are trending this season. While Bellotti showcased a film, Dario Vitale of Versace and Louise Trotter of Bottega Veneta offered a preview of their upcoming collections during the Venice Film Festival. Vitale’s collection is slated for September 26, with Trotter’s presentation on the 27th, marking her as the only woman debuting on Milan’s main runways this season.
Paris Fashion Week
The excitement in Paris mirrors that of Milan, as iconic fashion houses unveil their latest creative endeavors. The season kicks off on October 2 with Miguel Castro Freitas making his debut for Mugler. He stands out as one of the few lesser-known talents taking the helm of a notable fashion brand amid ongoing shifts in leadership.
On October 3, the acclaimed duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will unveil their first collection for Loewe, taking over responsibilities from Jonathan Anderson. Meanwhile, Anderson will showcase his new womenswear line for Dior on October 1, marking a notable reveal of his take on the brand’s feminine signature styles.
The following day, one of the most eagerly awaited come-backs occurs. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who transitioned from Valentino in March 2024, will assume creative direction at Balenciaga. Additionally, Dutch designer Duran Lantink will officially lead Jean Paul Gaultier, making this a significant shift in the current design landscape.
The season’s highlight is undoubtedly Matthieu Blazy’s first show for Chanel, a highly anticipated event occurring ten months post-appointment and nearly six years after Karl Lagerfeld’s passing. The expectations surrounding this presentation are monumental.
Are you excited to see how these shifts in creative direction will shape the upcoming fashion season?
